Steal like an artist. Where is originality?
This is the title of the New York Times bestseller that I read at the beginning of my designer journey. Reviewed by over 6,000 people on Amazon, this book is a must-read for any creative person. The main idea is that there is no need to reinvent the wheel. As designers and artists, we live in society, therefore we consciously or subconsciously borrow ideas. The author Austin Kleon suggests embracing this thought, especially when just starting a career. By imitating the style of other people, creatives can develop concepts by applying their own experiences, and ultimately becoming artists with a defined vision.
Lately, there has been a lot of backlashes and canceling of designers because of copying other people’s work. Social media accounts call on designers, and brands throw each other under the bus. Influencers steal from indie brands, large houses accuse other brands of copying their work. What is really going on in the industry? Without jumping into judgment, let’s figure out why it happens and what are the goals behind it.
Currently, we are in a state of retrogression. Like any other art form, fashion is the reflection of what is going on in society. Have you noticed that trends seem to repeat faster? The work is being constantly reinterpreted, the 90s, then 70s, then 2000s. We progressed a lot technically as far as fabrics, production timeline, at the same time, there has not been much innovation in terms of garment design in recent decades.
The goal is to dominate the market. When something is popular, it is a fair game. There is a reason why fabrics and pieces of clothing cannot be trademarked. It allows for the industries such as apparel to advance. While brands have certain signature styles, no one can claim a single right to a garment or an accessory.
Jumping on trend is the opportunity to reach business goals quicker. Anyone familiar with the product life cycle knows that there are early adopters, then there are mass consumers. It seems like, with the development of social media, the fashions have become widely available to a consumer. If tweed is on-trend, then every fashion house from luxury to fast fashion will add it to their product line.
There is a lot of pressure for designers to perform. The role of the designer is to provide a solution to a problem. In the fashion business, it is to create enough desire for beautiful or not so clothing that it leads to a sale. The creative directors move from house to house. No matter how brilliant the designer, it takes time to explore the archive, research brand DNA, absorb information and produce collections. What ends up happening is that the designers bring their own aesthetic from one house to another.
Every brand uses some sort of trend forecasting service (be on the lookout for a separate article explaining trend forecasting). The gist of it is that there are companies that analyze a ton of data, images, cultural, political movements, and predict what will be in fashion in 2-3 years. When you see similar styles on the runway in the same season, it is not a coincidence, it was thoroughly planned.
Designers are getting inspired by the same art, music. While it is quite narrow-minded to say, it happens all the time. Again, thanks to social media, if something is popular it becomes widely spread quickly. No wonder designers are influenced by the same movements.
I must add that copying designs to learn is completely different from knocking off someone else’s work for personal gain. Intellectual property laws exist to prevent other people from stealing art and benefiting from it. “Steal like an artist” is rather a process of growing as a creative by learning the technique, style, tools that are widely available to anyone. After it is done, the designer or artists come up with their unique style. What can be done in the fashion industry to promote originality?
Give designers enough time to research and for ideas to “cook.” Time is the most valuable resource now, there seems to be never enough time, especially in a fast-paced industry such as fashion. There are many stories that designers suffer from mental health issues with constant pressure to perform. Creative people do not operate that way, it is important for them to charge batteries and give time for the process.
Collaborate across industries. It seems like every company has collaborated with either a luxury or, on the opposite, a more affordable brand to create limited-edition collections. I think it would be fun to cross-collaborate. Many former architects are doing well in fashion because they bring a different perspective. Imagine a luxury car designer creating a line of clothing!
Hire the artisans. Cultural appropriation has been called out a lot lately. During Galliano's years at Dior or Lagerfeld at Chanel, we witnessed many collections inspired by cultures around the world. They were absolutely stunning, however, it is not possible these days without actually hiring a representative from a particular culture. Many houses still continue appropriating without giving credit and supporting that community. There is something magical about a sweater knitted by an elderly lady in New York or a dress dyed by hand in Nigeria.
Foster young talent. There are many competitions for upcoming designers. But there is a twist, oftentimes they need to be in business for several years and have profit. I think it would be interesting to see a young designer develop a new collection for a famous fashion house under the guidance of a creative team. What ends up happening is that the student work is being copied after the interview. The bigger brands should hire these individuals because it is beneficial for both parties.
Embrace what technology has to offer. Apparel production is still very labor-intensive where most garments are sewn by people. As a whole, the industry is slow to adopt new technology. The pandemic forced brands to go online and divert funds to up their tech game. The recent growth of digital fashion is the first step towards better practices.
I believe that the industry is at a make it or break it a point. The system that worked in the past no longer serves anyone, so it is time to experiment and reinvent. I am positive that this stage shall pass, and we will see a new wave of designers with fresh ideas.
Modeliere