Dreams exist to come true. Part II
How I completed an haute couture embroidery course at L’Ecole Lesage.
Part II Embroidery course
Let’s get to the fun part!
In part I, I shared why I wanted to attend the school and how I got there. Let’s dive into why I am so fascinated by the Luneville embroidery. Here is more information on the Luneville embroidery from the Textile Research Center:
It is a technique that uses a tambour hook to attach beads, sequins, ribbons, and other materials to a fabric. The uniqueness of this embroidery type is the work is done upside down with continuous thread with a prestrung supply of beads. The person is beading from the wrong side of the fabric to secure decorative elements on the right side. Therefore it requires great control from both hands.
To give you an example, I chose to embroider a 4” x 2.5” bow that took me about 50 hours to complete. I found out that it was much more challenging than it looked, mainly because it was done on the wrong side of the fabric. Needless to say that I have experience sewing, crocheting, and doing embroidery, however, it still took me some time to get used to the hook and technique.
Not only tambour beading is technically challenging, but it is also one of the main beading techniques used in Haute Couture. Imagine embellishing a whole dress, it would take hundreds of hours. No wonder the cost of an haute couture garment can go up to $500,000. Fun fact: in order to become a master embroiderer, one needs to work for 10 years. As my teacher commented that “It is longer than being a doctor.”
It is important to preserve this craft and support the people who are willing to dedicate years to their metier. CHANEL is one of the few fashion houses, which supports its ateliers. In 2019, the company created Le19M, the building where all the metiers would unite under one roof. This spectacular building, right outside of north Paris near Rue Madeliene Vionett, has a U-shape construction, which allows plenty of daylight necessary for the handwork. There is a cafe, garden, and gallery in the building.
On the same day, I learned how to attach the fabric to the framed canvas, stretch it to a drum (tambour), and pin the ribbon. There is a technique behind everything; how to thread the needle, the size of stitches to make, and so on. I was eager to learn everything. I also got familiar with how to hold the tambour hook and make a basic tambour stitch. The 3-hour class flew by quickly.
The design that I chose had 7 different materials, and each required a specific technique. I learned new techniques every day, practiced under supervision, then finished at home. It was necessary to spend a minimum of 3 hours on your own to finish the assignment. The room that I stayed in was a good size for Paris and quite bright, but it still did not have the best conditions for embroidery. I recommend bringing portable light. I found that it was very difficult to work with sparky materials in particular without proper lighting.
Days 2 and 3 were similar as I knew what to expect, I brought my frame to class and could start working immediately until I was ready to try the new technique. I was putting in 1-2 hours extra hours every day, but it was still not enough to complete the entire design. I was recommended to finish half of the design, then do it on my own when I get home.
The last class was bittersweet. I was happy that I completed the course, but I was sad that it came to an end. I met so many people from all over the world. The teachers all work in the atelier and are famous “petite mains.” They were all very patient and supportive. Most of the people in my classes were students who took summer terms to learn the technique. It was exciting to watch them work on their projects with intricate designs. There were no language barriers, and no cultural differences, we all spoke the same language of Luneville embroidery.
Toward the end of the class, the teacher demonstrated how to finish the backing and make a brooch. Then they disassembled and wrapped my frame in craft paper as a gift, which I then warmly called “Baguette.” Then suddenly I realized that the 41” long frame would not fit into my suitcase. I was leaving Paris the same day, so I had to make a decision quickly. I decided to mail it myself as I didn’t want to risk the airline company confiscating it due to its size. I ran to the post office to mail it, but it turns out that they don’t sell boxes unlike in the US. Then I remembered that there was an Office Depot in my neighborhood, I bought scotch tape and a box. I went back to the post office, the lovely French lady helped me fill out the customs forms and wrap the package securely. It took about a week to arrive and cost around 50 euro. I was happy that I got to keep the frame and now I can practice at home.
For me it was not just a dream, it was a nod to a student who woke up at 4 am to get to school. I took 2 buses, one of which stopped at World Disney World, where I would see the sign “Where dreams come true.” It is a reminder that it is never too late to pursue your dreams. I would love to go back and take other courses, but for now, it’s just a dream.
Thank you for following me on this journey,
Uliana